2016年12月25日 星期日

[Adventure in Cesky Krumlov] 24-25 Dec UNESCO medieval town beside the Vltava.

The Vltava 是捷克語的Moldau river. 原來Smetana的莫爾島河是英譯呀!路上跟司機聊天,小帥哥英文不是很好,希望我沒有誤解太多他的介紹。當我提到Smetana時他笑著說Smetana唸起來在捷克語裡跟whipped creamㄧ模一樣。

The Vltava 的發源有兩支,一支在捷克境內,南方的波希米亞森林Lada,那邊有水力發電,一支起源於德國境內,有另一個名字但我忘了。

他說他們的建築是文藝復興時期的樣子,共產黨來做了可怕的事情之後他們又重建了部分舊城區,但都是按照中古世紀的樣子重繪的,現在對外最大的道路橋樑上是唯一保存下來的城門,從這個門進來就是最熱鬧的市集區域,對外一共有四座橋,但有一條只能給人走。

城區內的房子都是政府在修繕,對於房屋外表有許多規定,他舉例其中一條是:屋頂只能漆成紅色。城裡的城堡是軍事堡壘,本來只有附近另一個城堡,但同一個家族後來又來到Cesky Krumlov蓋了這個城堡(該不會又是哈布斯堡家族)。

他說他喜歡冬天因為觀光客少一點,但其實還是多到炸,其實城鎮已經高度觀光化了,走沒幾步就青旅、旅館、餐廳、紀念品小店,老是遇到旅行團,真討厭。但也可能是聖誕節的關係,比較當地的小店都沒開(還是根本沒有這種店?)

他們這裡的裝飾很喜歡用畫的,城堡教堂外牆磚石用畫的,天花板或牆面的裝飾圖騰用畫的,招牌用畫的,路標手寫,而且顏色非常繽紛,很多古怪的人偶、巫婆、中古世紀的畫風。聖誕節當天逛到一個有趣的藝廊(?) 外牆都是古怪雕塑,但沒開覺得超可惜。

呃...我累了,就這樣突然的結束吧

2016年12月23日 星期五

[Adventure in Austria] Vienna, Salzburg, Hallstatt

The accommodation in Hallstatt is super expensive so we decided to stay in Salzburg and have a day trip there. We need to catch bus at 8.19. Our hostel locate at the left side of the river behind a hill. It take half an hour on foot to get to the centre station.

My accompany is either young or an early bird so I have to well prepared for today. I even get dressed before I went to bed last night so that I can sleep a quarter longer and I gave up to wear any make up as well lol
Transferring INSTRUCTION :
150 (terminal H) to final stop [ Bad Ischl ] 1 hour 40 minutes
543 (terminal C) to [ Gosaumühle ] 30 minutes
542 just beside where 543 stops to [ Hallstatt] ] 10 minutes
*Return ticket: 29 euros

The view on the way is amazing. The mountain and plain covered by snow and when the sun came out the mist raise up from horizon and float in the air. Sometimes it form a contrasting that maze upon small lake and the cloud upon the mountain.

After a long journey, we finally arrived. The temperature was low but the sun was shiny. At the place we got off (didn't even entering the town). On one side, sunshine golden the mountain and on the other side, the mountain hide in shadow which reflect by the lake becomes blue. I'm the most lucky person in the world to have such a nice whether while visiting in winter!!

I climb a bit to a place where I got a bird's eye view to the town. The pathway is so slipping...but recording still came across my mind. So I held microphone in one hand and grab the handle with another. My friend and I slipped a few time, I thinks it must sound nice hahahaha so natural!

After we back to Salzburg, we had a superb dinner. When we came out and crossed the street to take a picture of the restaurant. An old gentleman stopped and looked at me. I didn't realised until I finished so I turned to him. He didn't say anything but smile at me so I said Merry Christmas to him. He asked where I came from. I told him I'm from Taiwan. Then he asked if I can speak German. I said no...I can only speak English because I'm studying in England now. He seemed didn't understand me and split out a long sentence in German. I couldn't understand any of it! But he still trying very hard to chat with me in German...I almost say "hauptbahnhof" to him since this is the only word I know in German.

I struggled for a couple of minutes finally here came my friends while he is trying to teach me: "ich bin Austrian, sie ist_____" I ask my friend to speak German with him but she couldn't because she has learned it several years ago. At last, he spoke something in Italian and I knew it!!! So I answered him 
"buonanotte signore!"
"Gute Nacht" he siad.
"Auf Wiedersehen and Merry Christmas sir!"

He didn't seems like to say goodbye but it was freezing and late. I was wondering if it's in the day time perhaps we will have a German lesson together. Imagine it! That would be interesting! I already had much fun talking to somebody on street. Although both of us couldn't understand each other, I learned a sentence!

2016年12月21日 星期三

[布達佩斯大冒險] Sight Seeing day

攻頂Liberty status,看到好美的雪景,鳥瞰Buda side和Pest side各有風情,多瑙河還是在霧裡,但是拍不清有拍不清的浪漫,霧再大高處的城市環境音並不會受影響,我必須記錄這些聲音,就像別人記錄畫面一樣。

城堡區徒步導覽實在太冷,但看到好多繽紛可愛的房子啊!結束後飢寒交迫之下喝到超好喝的雞湯以及豬油麵包!我愛匈牙利!讓我意外的是湯不是濃湯,是清湯!然後湯裡面加了義大利麵哈哈哈有點酷,東歐的食物真的既有歐洲但又和亞洲很有異曲同工之妙!

晚上再度不顧一切跑去Szechenyi泡溫泉,過Gallert不入就是因為買了72 hr的車票就覺得狠狠給它搭下去就對了!今天遇到了一個住在伊斯坦堡的韓國大叔,不同於黎巴嫩哥,他似乎不是出來獵豔,只是想找個旅伴。閒聊時得知他之前從事寶石鑑定,後來做進出口貿易,感覺閒暇的時間很多,一個人出來旅行了20多天,但是聽起來是個空虛寂寥的自閉之旅,舒適多金的度假行程而不是蒐集旅途的未知、拼湊出人物城市的樣貌。言談間發現他的某些神情似曾相識,和我認識的一個朋友好像,好像世界上沒有什麼事情能讓他提得起勁開心,享受快樂的當下也還是放不下憂慮,他們需要透過別人的眼睛去找回一些事情,於是也容易誤解自己的情感。

回家的路上,經過聖誕市集大部份都關了,但是賣熱酒的桶子還在冒著煙,我點了一杯blue wine,讓步行回家路上的風不至於吹走泡完溫泉的溫暖。

晚上和另一位旅人深聊,也是來自台灣音樂圈,一個28歲的女生獨自旅行了八個月,曾向路人借宿、搭過便車到波蘭偏僻的小鎮、睡過地下街。自身的課題、社會的議題、人類學、歷史和景點,一路從11點聊到三點。

我發現,離開,都是為了更瞭解自己一點、更了解怎麼與大環境共處,旅途上的每個選擇決定都能一再打破原本那個我們以為的自己。她在等她自己想終止旅程的那一天,回家,開始改變,縱使大家都知道自己可能看不到改變,但是那是一個該去的地方。

2016年12月19日 星期一

[布達佩斯大冒險] Adventure in Budapest!

噢不是布達佩斯大飯店,我一個人在布達佩斯小青旅,因為夜間冷下的氣溫讓我這個熱帶俗完全無法招架,只好躲在床上整理照片,還很想去bar喝一杯mulled wine但又不敢自己去,只好點播一首突然好想你,順便寫寫遊記。

昨天很感謝Lilly和家人來機場接我,不只把我送到很難找的青旅,還開車幫我導覽了一下城市,雖然歷史和一堆匈牙利地名都記不起來,可是今天走路時就知道有模糊的印象還是有差!Million thanks to Lilly sweetie!

今天去了有名但離市中心比較遠的Széchenyi Thermal Bath,游泳泡水三小時,覺得感冒要好了💪,中途被黎巴嫩男搭訕嚇死我,後來趁他遇到他朋友藉機開溜,繼續享受一個人的無腦放鬆行程。然後我都沒有拍浴場內部氣魄的模樣!無限惋惜!室內超多種水質跟水溫、蒸汽、烤箱,戶外兩池不同溫度加一個標準泳道,但我真的真的真的不懂泡溫泉、游泳帶手機自拍棒這麼不怕麻煩要怎麼享受當下?帶報紙的我還比較能理解。

我住的Hostel 在Duna左岸,過個橋就是Gellert Thermal Bath,但可能市中心的緣故,聽說規模比較小票價還比較貴。Btw我大推這間青旅(有興趣的人可以問我),雖然座落在陰暗的巷子,建築又很老舊但內部很新、乾淨、廚房浴室設備齊全、wifi穩定夠快、工作人員超親切!一晚只要€11!不在最繁華熱鬧的區域,但走路去搭公車或地鐵也還行!況且我個人覺得走路是認識一個城市最好的方式啊❤️

傍晚去當代美術館,只能說我真心愛當代,目前有個近代120年的特展,我實在是不太能體會肖像畫、歷史畫、風景畫這些很寫實的畫的趣味。其中有一個房間吸引我多一點,是畫家很愛貝多芬,愛到作畫時都會聽,然後五幅畫作就是五個樂章的情境,而那一區就有音響播放田園交響曲。後面看到兩個小房間有當代作品,完全把我吸進去,原本一直在走動都停止了,就想一直待在那些顏色裡面。

走出Kunsthalle Műcsarnok回家時下雪了❄️❄️❄️已凍僵,本來想多逗留的Christmas market都無法,草率吃完熱狗就回家,我覺得聖誕市集是否太坑錢,以這裡的物價...一個熱狗2000Forints正常嗎?美術館學生票才1100欸!總之因為一路手指頭腳趾頭都在痛,沒一張照片能看的,明天一整天的戶外行程,希望去看城堡雕像的時候不要太冷...